Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Lausanne Eating: Brasserie Bavaria

A couple of weeks back my other half and I went to Brasserie Bavaria. The name should be giveaway enough as to what you'll be eating: no creative salads or tasting plates of miso-braised cod here!

The menu is all pork, potato, cheese and beer (no less than 80 of them). This place is all about drinking, and soaking up that drinking with the most reliable dietary sponges that German engineering has given us: carbs, cabbage and cooked pig.

Denis had the Grande Choucroute (Large Sauerkraut, top picture). It consisted of a few kilos of pork taking a breather on a bed of excellent sauerkraut (subtle, light, definitely homemade) and a boiled spud. The meat selection featured thick sliced bacon, a pork steak, a couple of wiener sausages, ham on the bone and a slice of local Vaudois snag. I can't think why he has high cholesterol.

I went for something a little more kosher (though not really): an incredibly good rösti (grated potato cake) that was as a fluffy as a cloud despite being studded with pan-fried bacon. It was covered in melted raclette cheese and then topped with paper-thin slices of dried beef. Some cocktail onions and cornichons provided light relief.

Service was curt, to put it kindly. I think the waitstaff may have been trained by the notoriously grumpy dames across the road at the Romande. That said, our food appeared within 10 minutes of us walking through the door, making this an ideal spot for a quick bite before the theatre or the opera. Or going home to watch TV...

The decor looks as though the proprietor glanced at a paint chart and decided to just let the local smokers stain the walls, but there are some lovely friezes and plenty of wood panelling, just in case you can't stomach another bloody Eames chair or communal table covered in design magazines (granted, this is not much of a problem in Lausanne).

At the Bavaria, the closest thing to fusion is when the cheese sticks to the meat, and we're glad of it.


Address: Rue du Petit-Chêne 10, CH 1003 Lausanne (just near Place St François)
Prices: choucroutes CHF26-42; röstis CHF19.50-42; 'festival of ox tongue and pork knuckle' dishes CHF27.50-35.50
Best for: fast, comforting staples of great quality; torturing annoying people with food issues

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